服裝(zhuang)加(jia)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)廠加(jia)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)一件(jian)衣服,其(qi)中(zhong)裝(zhuang)飾工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)藝是(shi)非常重要(yao)的,今天(tian)我們就一起簡單學習(xi)一下 裝(zhuang)飾工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)藝。
裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾工(gong)藝(yi)就(jiu)是(shi)起裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾點(dian)綴作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)加(jia)工(gong)工(gong)藝(yi),原多用(yong)(yong)(yong)手工(gong)。具有技藝(yi)專業、風格(ge)獨特(te)、歷(li)史悠久的(de)(de)特(te)點(dian)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾工(gong)藝(yi)制作(zuo)的(de)(de)服裝(zhuang)(zhuang),被(bei)視(shi)為精美的(de)(de)藝(yi)術品。中華(hua)人民共和國建立后,這些傳統(tong)工(gong)藝(yi)得到(dao)繼(ji)承和發揚。加(jia)工(gong)方面除創制諸如鑲、嵌、滾、蕩(dang)、盤、繡(xiu)等專用(yong)(yong)(yong)小(xiao)工(gong)具外,還(huan)發展到(dao)使用(yong)(yong)(yong)機器,常用(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)設備(bei)有繡(xiu)花機、高頻(pin)軋花機、絎(heng)花機以(yi)及各(ge)種(zhong)(zhong)多功(gong)能裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾縫紉機。先進的(de)(de)電腦繡(xiu)花機,采用(yong)(yong)(yong)九色彩繡(xiu),24個機頭同(tong)步工(gong)作(zuo),并配(pei)有二(er)針到(dao)二(er)十五針機的(de)(de)10多種(zhong)(zhong)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾機,可在織物上創造出復雜的(de)(de)美術圖案。裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾工(gong)藝(yi)有傳統(tong)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾、花式裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾、特(te)藝(yi)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾3種(zhong)(zhong)。
傳統裝飾
主要指傳(chuan)統的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)鑲(xiang)、嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian)、滾(gun)(gun)(也稱緄)、蕩(dang)(dang)、盤(pan)(pan)。①鑲(xiang):將異色(se)(se)(se)或(huo)異質(zhi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)布料(liao),以鑲(xiang)邊(bian)、鑲(xiang)條(tiao)、鑲(xiang)色(se)(se)(se)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)形(xing)式(shi)組(zu)成(cheng)不同韻味(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)整體。②嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian):在(zai)兩(liang)層(ceng)織(zhi)物(wu)中(zhong)(zhong)間(jian)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)上嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian)線(xian)。嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian)線(xian)按部(bu)位(wei)有(you)外嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian)、里嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian),按形(xing)狀(zhuang)有(you)扁嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian)、圓(yuan)嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian)(嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian)條(tiao)內加(jia)細繩(sheng))。③滾(gun)(gun):按材(cai)(cai)料(liao)經緯方向取45°條(tiao)狀(zhuang)斜料(liao)將衣片邊(bian)緣包實(shi)(shi)、包光(guang)。是處理(li)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)邊(bian)緣的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)常用裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾方法。種(zhong)類有(you)細香滾(gun)(gun)、狹滾(gun)(gun)、闊滾(gun)(gun)、單(dan)(dan)滾(gun)(gun)、雙(shuang)滾(gun)(gun);或(huo)按緝(ji)縫(feng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)層(ceng)次有(you)二層(ceng)滾(gun)(gun)、三層(ceng)滾(gun)(gun)、四層(ceng)滾(gun)(gun)(俗(su)稱皮頭滾(gun)(gun))。滾(gun)(gun)和嵌(qian)(qian)(qian)(qian)常組(zu)合使用,給人以精致(zhi)、華貴的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)美感,用于(yu)衣襟、領、領口、底邊(bian)、衩口等(deng)(deng)部(bu)位(wei)。④蕩(dang)(dang):俗(su)稱蕩(dang)(dang)條(tiao)。用異料(liao)懸緝(ji)在(zai)衣片某(mou)部(bu)位(wei)呈條(tiao)狀(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾形(xing)式(shi)。有(you)單(dan)(dan)層(ceng)蕩(dang)(dang)、雙(shuang)層(ceng)蕩(dang)(dang)、單(dan)(dan)邊(bian)明線(xian)蕩(dang)(dang)、狹蕩(dang)(dang)、闊蕩(dang)(dang)、單(dan)(dan)蕩(dang)(dang)、雙(shuang)蕩(dang)(dang)、一(yi)滾(gun)(gun)一(yi)蕩(dang)(dang)、一(yi)滾(gun)(gun)二蕩(dang)(dang)。多用于(yu)女裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)、童裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾,有(you)樸實(shi)(shi)、高(gao)雅、別具一(yi)格(ge)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)特點(dian)。⑤盤(pan)(pan):用織(zhi)物(wu)或(huo)絲繩(sheng)制成(cheng)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)紐(niu)(niu)(niu)襻(pan)條(tiao),盤(pan)(pan)成(cheng)各(ge)種(zhong)花型。分(fen)盤(pan)(pan)花、盤(pan)(pan)紐(niu)(niu)(niu)兩(liang)種(zhong)。盤(pan)(pan)花是將紐(niu)(niu)(niu)襻(pan)條(tiao)彎(wan)曲成(cheng)各(ge)種(zhong)花卉圖案(an),用于(yu)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)領口、前胸、擺縫(feng)等(deng)(deng)部(bu)位(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)扣合或(huo)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾,產生虛中(zhong)(zhong)有(you)實(shi)(shi)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)藝術(shu)效果,是高(gao)檔服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)(de)精致(zhi)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)飾。盤(pan)(pan)紐(niu)(niu)(niu)是用紐(niu)(niu)(niu)襻(pan)條(tiao)盤(pan)(pan)曲成(cheng)各(ge)種(zhong)花色(se)(se)(se)紐(niu)(niu)(niu)扣。有(you)空心花紐(niu)(niu)(niu)、實(shi)(shi)心花紐(niu)(niu)(niu)、雙(shuang)色(se)(se)(se)花紐(niu)(niu)(niu)等(deng)(deng) 3種(zhong)。題材(cai)(cai)豐(feng)富,內涵深刻,如“福、祿、壽”、“壽桃”、花卉、動(dong)物(wu)等(deng)(deng)各(ge)種(zhong)象形(xing)花紐(niu)(niu)(niu),具有(you)濃郁(yu)民族特色(se)(se)(se)。
花式裝飾
主(zhu)要指在服(fu)裝上增(zeng)設荷葉邊、穗墜(zhui)、包紐、絨球、穿繩等(deng)附件,或進行緝(ji)線、緝(ji)花、抽褶、打(da)裥等(deng)。
特藝裝飾
在服裝(zhuang)(zhuang)上運用(yong)特(te)殊技(ji)藝顯示裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)效果。繡花、手繪、蠟染(ran)、扎染(ran)等是常用(yong)的(de)特(te)藝裝(zhuang)(zhuang)飾(shi)(shi)手法。
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