裁剪(jian)(jian)(jian)就是(shi)將衣料分(fen)(fen)割成各種形態衣片的(de)工藝。有批量裁剪(jian)(jian)(jian)(又稱工業(ye)裁剪(jian)(jian)(jian))和單件裁剪(jian)(jian)(jian)之分(fen)(fen)。

　　批量裁剪

　　按(an)照(zhao)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)號(hao)(hao)型(xing)系列制(zhi)作樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)進(jin)行多疊層(ceng)的(de)(de)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)。是(shi)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)工業生(sheng)產中(zhong)的(de)(de)主要(yao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)形(xing)式(shi)(shi)。主要(yao)步驟為：①材料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)檢驗。主要(yao)是(shi)對(dui)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)伸縮(suo)率、色(se)(se)牢度(du)、耐(nai)熱度(du)的(de)(de)理化檢驗，檢查疵(ci)點，測幅寬(kuan)，整理緯斜以(yi)及(ji)熱預(yu)縮(suo)等(deng)。②制(zhi)定(ding)規格(ge)(ge)和(he)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)。根(gen)據服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)款式(shi)(shi)、規格(ge)(ge)、衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)性能(neng)和(he)縫制(zhi)工藝(yi)要(yao)求(qiu)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)硬紙(zhi)板(ban)(ban)(ban)制(zhi)成(cheng)劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)片樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)，并制(zhi)定(ding)規格(ge)(ge)搭配等(deng)。③排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)。將(jiang)各(ge)衣(yi)(yi)片樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)排(pai)列在衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)上(shang)或(huo)(huo)與衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)幅寬(kuan)相同(tong)(tong)的(de)(de)紙(zhi)上(shang)，以(yi)求(qiu)最大(da)限度(du)地提高衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)利用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)率。④劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)。按(an)排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)確定(ding)的(de)(de)格(ge)(ge)式(shi)(shi)，依樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)劃(hua)出衣(yi)(yi)片輪廓和(he)記(ji)號(hao)(hao)。批(pi)量大(da)的(de)(de)產品通(tong)常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)漏花樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban)(將(jiang)排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)線路鉆(zhan)成(cheng)等(deng)距連續針孔的(de)(de)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)板(ban)(ban)(ban))，以(yi)刷(shua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)(用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)粉(fen)末刷(shua)入(ru)孔內使(shi)之漏下顯形(xing))取代(dai)(dai)劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)。20世紀(ji)60年(nian)(nian)代(dai)(dai)出現用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)設(she)計的(de)(de)計算機(ji)(ji)輔助(zhu)設(she)計系統(CAD)，按(an)實樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)或(huo)(huo)比例繪(hui)出排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)圖的(de)(de)新技(ji)術。⑤鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)。按(an)排(pai)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)所需(xu)長(chang)度(du)、幅寬(kuan)、數量，將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)多層(ceng)疊鋪(pu)在裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)臺上(shang)。50年(nian)(nian)代(dai)(dai)除手工鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)外，采用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)手推(tui)車或(huo)(huo)往返式(shi)(shi)電(dian)(dian)動(dong)鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)(ji)操作。80年(nian)(nian)代(dai)(dai)應用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)微電(dian)(dian)腦控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)(de)自(zi)動(dong)鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)機(ji)(ji)，能(neng)自(zi)動(dong)進(jin)行正、反面交叉(cha)或(huo)(huo)單面鋪(pu)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)，自(zi)動(dong)理邊、記(ji)數等(deng)。⑥開(kai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)。按(an)劃(hua)樣(yang)(yang)(yang)(yang)線路將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)成(cheng)衣(yi)(yi)片。通(tong)常用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)立式(shi)(shi)電(dian)(dian)剪(jian)刀(見日用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)五金)，最高開(kai)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)厚度(du)可達160mm，薄型(xing)織(zhi)物(wu)約(yue)200層(ceng)。此外還(huan)有(you)(you)各(ge)種輔助(zhu)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)設(she)備(bei)，如(ru)帶式(shi)(shi)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)布(bu)機(ji)(ji)(又稱環形(xing)刀裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)機(ji)(ji))、沖(chong)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)機(ji)(ji)等(deng)。60年(nian)(nian)代(dai)(dai)末出現使(shi)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)電(dian)(dian)腦控(kong)制(zhi)的(de)(de)自(zi)動(dong)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)機(ji)(ji)(CAM)。⑦分(fen)包(bao)。將(jiang)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)好(hao)的(de)(de)衣(yi)(yi)片按(an)不同(tong)(tong)的(de)(de)規格(ge)(ge)、顏(yan)色(se)(se)歸(gui)類，分(fen)成(cheng)若干(gan)包(bao)。⑧編(bian)號(hao)(hao)。將(jiang)一(yi)件(jian)(包(bao))服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)(de)各(ge)組(zu)合(he)衣(yi)(yi)片編(bian)成(cheng)同(tong)(tong)一(yi)個順序號(hao)(hao)。有(you)(you)以(yi)包(bao)編(bian)號(hao)(hao)或(huo)(huo)以(yi)件(jian)編(bian)號(hao)(hao)兩種。襯衫、睡衣(yi)(yi)等(deng)產品通(tong)常以(yi)一(yi)匹同(tong)(tong)色(se)(se)原料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)按(an)序編(bian)號(hao)(hao)，對(dui)易產生(sheng)色(se)(se)差的(de)(de)采取分(fen)層(ceng)以(yi)件(jian)編(bian)號(hao)(hao)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)自(zi)動(dong)號(hao)(hao)碼機(ji)(ji)打印。⑨扎包(bao)。將(jiang)產品的(de)(de)組(zu)合(he)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)片按(an)規定(ding)的(de)(de)搭配要(yao)求(qiu)包(bao)扎在一(yi)起(qi)，并在包(bao)外注明(ming)標號(hao)(hao)，掛上(shang)標簽。在服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)加工廠給(gei)客戶做大(da)貨時就會用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)批(pi)量裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)的(de)(de)方法進(jin)行。

　　單件裁剪

　　對(dui)合體(ti)(ti)要(yao)求較高或(huo)(huo)特(te)殊體(ti)(ti)型(xing)的定(ding)制(zhi)服(fu)裝(zhuang)加(jia)工(gong)、樣(yang)(yang)品(pin)等進(jin)行裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。根(gen)據穿著(zhu)對(dui)象(xiang)的體(ti)(ti)型(xing)或(huo)(huo)樣(yang)(yang)品(pin)測取各(ge)(ge)種裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)數(shu)據。上衣(yi)(yi)主要(yao)測量(liang)(liang)部(bu)位有衣(yi)(yi)長(chang)、胸(xiong)(xiong)圍、肩寬(kuan)、袖長(chang)、領圍。緊身式(shi)女(nv)(nv)裝(zhuang)還需(xu)增測腰圍、臀(tun)圍、乳高、乳距、前后(hou)腰節(jie)長(chang)度(du)等。褲(ku)的主要(yao)測量(liang)(liang)部(bu)位有褲(ku)長(chang)、腰圍、臀(tun)圍、上襠長(chang)。單件(jian)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)的方法(fa)(fa)主要(yao)有 5種。①比例(li)法(fa)(fa)：即胸(xiong)(xiong)度(du)法(fa)(fa)或(huo)(huo)臀(tun)度(du)法(fa)(fa)。上衣(yi)(yi)以(yi)人(ren)(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)胸(xiong)(xiong)圍為(wei)(wei)基(ji)(ji)礎(chu)，下裝(zhuang)以(yi)人(ren)(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)臀(tun)圍為(wei)(wei)基(ji)(ji)礎(chu)，對(dui)其他部(bu)位尺(chi)寸(cun)根(gen)據胸(xiong)(xiong)圍或(huo)(huo)臀(tun)圍進(jin)行比例(li)分配。②原型(xing)法(fa)(fa)：又(you)稱基(ji)(ji)型(xing)法(fa)(fa)。依測量(liang)(liang)人(ren)(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)的尺(chi)寸(cun)為(wei)(wei)基(ji)(ji)準(zhun)，繪制(zhi)模具(ju)式(shi)衣(yi)(yi)片(pian)原型(xing)，然(ran)后(hou)在(zai)原型(xing)基(ji)(ji)礎(chu)上按(an)(an)(an)款式(shi)特(te)點作局(ju)部(bu)調整，再(zai)進(jin)行裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。③定(ding)寸(cun)法(fa)(fa)：用(yong)文(wen)字或(huo)(huo)圖(tu)形將(jiang)各(ge)(ge)部(bu)位裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)所(suo)需(xu)數(shu)據全部(bu)標(biao)(biao)出，然(ran)后(hou)按(an)(an)(an)標(biao)(biao)出的尺(chi)寸(cun)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。④短(duan)寸(cun)法(fa)(fa)：對(dui)人(ren)(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)各(ge)(ge)部(bu)位盡可(ke)能進(jin)行測量(liang)(liang)，然(ran)后(hou)按(an)(an)(an)取得的數(shu)據進(jin)行裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)。⑤立(li)體(ti)(ti)法(fa)(fa)：在(zai)人(ren)(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)模型(xing)或(huo)(huo)人(ren)(ren)(ren)體(ti)(ti)上直接塑(su)造服(fu)裝(zhuang)款式(shi)，并做好(hao)各(ge)(ge)種標(biao)(biao)記，是將(jiang)設計造型(xing)和裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)融為(wei)(wei)一體(ti)(ti)的方法(fa)(fa)。縫制(zhi)前還需(xu)復原為(wei)(wei)平面，作必要(yao)的修正或(huo)(huo)復制(zhi)成樣(yang)(yang)板。常用(yong)于裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)某(mou)些立(li)體(ti)(ti)感強，造型(xing)難度(du)高，衣(yi)(yi)料柔軟，具(ju)懸垂特(te)性的女(nv)(nv)式(shi)時裝(zhuang)。服(fu)裝(zhuang)加(jia)工(gong)廠(chang)給客戶打版時就(jiu)會用(yong)單件(jian)裁(cai)(cai)(cai)剪(jian)(jian)的方法(fa)(fa)進(jin)行。